Funny evening at Circus William

There are always a lot of things to do at home when you travel intensively as I plan to do in the next days, but I couldn't refuse to follow a friend's suggestion for an evening at Circus, one day before a short trip to Luxembourg. To be honest, I am not such a big fan of European circus - but always fascinated by the beauty of its Chinese variant. I fell in love with the manège shows in my teenage years only, thanks to some beautiful paintings inspired by acrobats that I admired in the house of a relative. But as the chances for some family fun in the last days of 2013 were extremely limited, we took the advantage of the 8 Eur. family ticket and went to the Circus William.

Due to the special prices, only inspiration secured our places: I made a phone reservation early in the morning otherwise shortly before the opening of the show there were no more tickets left.

The show took place on a very extreme East side of the city, a place a never been too but reminded me every tram station of the ugly Communist areas. In the public, children, parents and grandparents of all ages and social backgrounds were translating into practice the fraternity between classes, ages and even ethnic backgrounds.

Temperatures are getting lower these days and I was a bit sceptical to spend some hours in a tent. However, the heating worked perfectly and during the entire show did not feel that only a cover abnd not a real wall separates me from the outside one digit cold. 

Let's the show begin! I haven't been to a proper simple circus show for more than three years, when we've been to a relatively boring representation in Barcelona, almost the same time of the year. Now, I did not have time to get bored: each part lasted for around 1 hour with a break in-between for visiting the animals or taking pictures with big snakes, and each moment lasted maximum 10 minutes. Every moment was entertaining enough to keep you awake, even if you don't understand German properly. The acrobatic moment were intense, but relatively simple with an awesome closing show with acrobats running on a running wheel on the top of an ingenious machinery more than 20 meter high. Last but not least, we all were intrigued by the special magic of the lady who was able to change her show costume more than 8 times within seconds. Indeed, only magic can help a lady to change her outfits so fast!

The animal shows - with camels, horses, zebras, antelopes and the much praised white tigers (that like any artists, were not in a very good mood to perform on stage that evening) - were relatively dutiful. Amazing performance of the 2-leg walking horses though!

The clowns were fine, not extremely amusing, but not bothering or too vulgar either. 

At the end of two hours of show, ending up with a hearth-breathing performance, we had exactly what we expected: fun, some suspense and a lot of entertainment. Plus a picture with the big snake. Sometimes, you don't need to much to be happy.

A visit in the 'garden city' of Frohnau

As many other areas situated in the outskirts of the city, Frohnau is considered one of the most expensive places to buy a house. The entire area has entire streets of individually designed villas, few shops and a lot of green areas and parking spaces. With many museums and businesses closed for the long winter holidays and as one of the few places in the city I never visited, I decided this Monday that I should offer myself a little tour there. 

Frohnau is situated in the northwestern part of the city, and has direct S-Bahn line going from Friedrichstrasse, direction Oranienburg. The trains are regular and within 45 minutes I was there. Frohnau was created at the beginning of the 20th century, following the principles of the 'Garden city' English urbanism school of thought. The aim was to build self-sufficient communities, with agricultural, trade and residential areas. 

The diversity of architectural style is catching the eye: from very classical German-style buildings, to colourful houses or big gardens and stone stairs and moss covered roofs. There were almost no one on the streets, except people walking their dogs, mostly beautiful huskies. 

We went slowly in the direction of Edelhoffdamm at the end of which we saw a stone door with elephants leading to a temple on the top of the hill. The mystery of the European looking monk that we had met a couple of minutes ago dressed in a dark robe was clarified now. The Buddhist temple was created by the German doctor and spiritual master Paul Dahlke who lived here till late in the 1920s. 

We returned back to the area close to the S-Bahn, where people were intensively shopping. There was even a fine confisserie Schiffke offering fine chocolates. The area around the S-Bahn is circle-shaped containing everything needed for the basic needs, plus a local casino that looks rather as a museum of natural history. We walk on the other side of the circle, through the big alleys that used to be a favourite place for slow horse back riding in the summer. Another portion of calm and quietness and many green spots that makes you forget where you are; maybe somewhere in the countryside? 

But new schedule emergencies were calling me back in the busy center of Berlin. In my S-Bahn back home, I spotted other areas that might be interesting to explore any time soon. 

To be continued. 

Restaurant review: Rice Queen on Danzigerstrasse

The last Saturday evening, we were a bit tired and a bit more confused about what to do. As usual, we turned to the East side of the city for more inspiration. For the first time in more than a year, we went slowly on Danziger strasse, on both sides of the street, looking to find out a decent restaurant for a smart easy light meal. We spotted the Rice Queen and after checking the menu at the entrance, we were convinced to enter. 

It was quite busy, with a lot of local people enjoying late family meals. The restaurant seems to be another reconverted space from the area. It also has small tables for couples. The service is fast and pleasant. The background music was nice not too loud. The restrooms looked decent, but not impressive, with some old Chinese soap advertising near the ceiling. The prices are Eastern Berlin-style, meaning more than affordable. 

I started with a Jasmin-Rose tea that was not too perfumed and flavoured, a lot of water and not too much tea leaves. 

My choice of entrée was Su Wor Tip, some small pancake pockets with a mixture of veggies and soy sauce. There were a bit burned on sides but overall fine, an almost neutral taste. 

My partner chose something very inspired, as usual: 5 spices tofu. There have been identified at least 4 main spices - cinnamon, anise, pepper, cloves. Maybe it was too oily and maybe too sweet too, but overall was considered a good choice and healthy enough after some heavy meals on Friday evening. 

Call me unlucky - at least when it comes to order food - but my Pad Thai was a disappointment. The tofu looked like plastic and it was too salty for any normal taste. It looked as a couple of spices and veggies and the noodles were thrown soullessly together and brought to my table. Again, a very big disappointment.

The dessert saved the meal. Crispy spring rolls filled with banana, soaked in honey, sesame, almond and coconut sauce. Warning: it is very sweet, but 3 pieces are enough to make you feel full, especially after some modest or even less than modest mains. 

We left the Rice Queen convinced that the next time, we should try other restaurants on Danziger strasse. I am sure that till the next time there will be even more temptations, as the area is changing very fast. 

Jewish memories in Berlin: Bleibtreustrasse 16

Charlottenburg used to have a very dynamic Jewish community before the war, with many middle class, journalists, lawyers and doctors living in the area. Berlin did not have a ghetto, as Warsaw for instance, the murderers being worried that either the population will show solidarity with the Jews and the unrest will be at high risk in the city or there will be a real danger of maladies due to the improper conditions in the ghetto. Thus, they set up common houses where the Jews were living under strict restrictions of communication and movement. 

At Bleibtreustrasse 16, very close from Ku'damm, the Caro family was living. The life of the two ladies, mother and daughter, are mentioned in the family memoir Two lives, by Vikram Seth. Through letters exchange before and after the war by his aunt that escaped to London, Henny to her friends and relatives in Berlin, Seth reconstructed the lives of the two Jewish souls and of the human relations between Jews and their neighbours and friends. It is an interesting book - except the misplaced projection and interpretation of the current situation in the Middle East - that has the merit to bring back to life forgotten destinies. Nowadays, there are no mentions of the former Jewish inhabitants on Bleibtreustrasse 16.  

Similar common houses existed in other parts of Charlottenburg as well, as for instance on Duisburg Street.
May the memory of the victims be blessed.

A visit at the Communications Museum

Berlin has so many museums that it is difficult sometimes to decide where to go first. Almost 5 years after moving here, I have a long list of places that I want to see in the next weeks, and the Communications Museum was on the first pole position. One of the main reasons was the curiosity to see what can be hidden behind the walls of massive building, not exactly my idea of host for such a thematic exhibition. I was not the only one impressed, as the Emperor Wilhelm the IInd remarked when saw it the first time that it is made in a 'Good, pure and simply dignified style!'. As at the time the main communication was made through the postal services, the aim of the building was to present the big achievements of the Germans in this domain. After the war, it was used as the Post Museum of the GDR. 

If one visits the museum on a weekday, expect a lot of school chidren visiting the place, sometimes noisy, sometimes only interested to see how it is to play soccer funny looking robots. At the first sight, you may take them as two big vacuum cleaners. They move in the direction of the ball, but not always as fast as the children. However, the idea of playing with and against two unmanned machines create a lot of action and fun for them. 

With the exception of the robots, the rest of the exhibition follows a relatively classical line. It has over 3,000 objects, covering various stages of development of the communications. The Treasure Chamber, for instance, has a lot of remarkable items featuring stamps, old cards or the first European telephone exchange with automatic dialling that took place in 1869 in Hildesheim. From time to time, spectacular presences are waking up the visitor from the lethargy induced by too much information. It is the case with the postal carriage from 1880, reconstructed piece by piece at one of the upper levels of the building. In the corners of the building adorned with classical statues words in neon lightning were intercalated as reminders of the times we are living in.

The visitor from the 21st century should not expect many details about the modern networked societies, as it seems that the research stops at the TV era for now - even though there is a small Internet room provided. Social media aren't very popular here and one of the reason might be the long weight of too much history. Instead, one can learn how to use the Morse system and understand the intricate network of communication, made by boats, buses or air planes or the force of the steam power, not only cables sending instant e-mails from the opposite corners of the world. 

The museum is very intensive in terms of the information shared, and is useful especially for the children who grew up with Internet and modern communications in general. As a once in a lifetime cultural experiences, it was interesting for the adult in me too, mainly for the historical references and other details regarding the development of communications in Germany. 

Sunday in Spandau

Sunday in the city. Again! This time, I wanted to go a little bit West to the West, this time, and a winter visit to Spandau was instantly approved by the rest of the gang. I returned very often there in the last years and I always feel good. This time, I had a plan to explore before a bit the area around Simensstadt too and made a stop at the hippie looking Paulsternstrasse. 'Paul Stern' was the name of an English pub. The U-Bahn station, inaugurated in 1984, was designed by the architect Rümmler, who projected other stations in the West Berlin.

The Siemensstadt area is a predominantly industrial area and a big smog is uttered by the furnaces of Vatenfall factory nearby. A historical billboard reminds that Siemens, as many other German factories, used forced labour. Our first stop for the day was the Texas ranch with a couple of typical country amusements, but the place is only open on Saturdays. 

A bit disappointed, we returned to the U-Bahn and continue our way till the station Altstadt (Old Town) Spandau, which brings us directly in the middle of the shopping area - another Sunday when the shops are open - , but also near the Cineplex where we should look for a convenient our for watching the Hobbit. The station has the same architect as 'Paulsternstrasse', but it is more sober, with floor mosaic, white red shaped pillars looking opening up like flowers. The lightning is interesting too, modern in the style of the end of the 1970s, yet part of an elegant ensemble. 

Every time I go to Spandau I am pleased with the quietness of the streets. Apparently, there could be more silent areas than my corner of Charlottenburg. Some may explain it as a sample of gentrification, a typical phenomenon for many Western parts of Berlin. But if one visits this area, formerly a completely independent city, during the mid-December, will have a completely different impression. The streets are full, people are eating and talking and if necessary dancing on the streets, in the smell of wurst and other local 'delicacies'.  

As we don't plan to eat outside walking, or to spend too much time in the middle of the busy masses anyway, we want to use the 2-3 free hours before the beginning of the movie walking the cobbled stones of the little village within the city. In the old historical areas we find peace and a lot of history. Remnants of the old city wall are co-existing now with buildings for another times, all of them keeping a certain air of noble family.

In the summer, the park around river Havel shores is full of people, their children and/or pets. This Sunday, with our notable exception and some joggers, it was no one around. The boats were waiting the spring, and the beer garden the summer for customers and fresh beers.

Suddenly, we were missing the hassle of the streets and we slowly made our way back, on small streets, with buildings from the 19th or beginning of 20th century, in various stages of reconstruction or simply left looking old, as a reminder of the times when graffiti was not invented yet.

When we are hungry in Spandau, we always stop to Soy, a Vietnamese-Japanese restaurant, close to Cineplex, where you can watch how the sushi is prepared on the counter or to watch the colourful blue and yellow fish from the aquarium from the back of the room. The chairs or couches are disposed in several rows, close to each other so don't expect too much privacy. The service is fast - take away orders are possible as well - and the prices are accessible. We started with some veggie spring rolls and a sour sweet sauce.

The meal continued - as usual - with my favourite mixture of rice, eggs, tofu and various veggies, fresh or a bit boiled. It is a light combination that helped us to move fast for being in time for the movie. The most delicious part for me was a mango smoothie, refreshing and energizing. I saw on the menu that they have avocado lassi, that I would like to test a next time.

One more stop, before running to catch the Hobbit: Vom Fass, offering a variety of drinks based on fruits or various flavours, but also oils based on interesting ingredients, such as truffle, chilli, orange, avocado. We end up the evening with a (bit too) long screening of the Hobbit, very entertaining and with beautiful landscapes, but almost unrecognisable for one who had read the book. 

Maybe I will return in Spandau in spring, when the days are longer and I can spend more time walking the old streets. Going to a movie can always be a good reason for a comeback.  

In the garden of delicacies: Eating without measure at MESA

I am very selective when it comes to eating out, looking especially for completely new, interesting places, serving food that I love and with relatively well known ingredients. Such a combination is not always possible. As I miss too much the sun and the view of the sea and I am relatively done with the Thai/Oriental food - till the new discovery - the Lebanese/Middle Eastern food is calling me. In the last weeks, I extensively explored my Charlottenburg area, amazed to discover so many new places, among which a small door leading to a Lebanese restaurant. As it is open only from 4pm - except the Sundays when it is closed - I needed to return weeks after, and what a great discovery I made! It's name is MESA, a word that means entrées. In the Middle East, you may be served a huge plate with small plates that you can test individually or mix all together. 

The restaurant is situated underground. From your table, in the middle of old chess boxes hanging on the wall, one can see the people coming and going. Except the obsessive carols playing over and over again, and some seasonal kitsch glittering near interesting old advertising, the ambiance is pleasant. And the service is very fast and ready to help the lost European.

It must not be exactly how things should be at a typical meal, but I cannot resist to start by ordering a Mocca, well seasoned with cardamom. I love coffee, and I drink it without sugar. This gracious cup had exactly the amount of sugar that makes the coffee delicious. So bad it cannot be kept warm for a longer time!

I decided to make an atypical choice again, and I ordered the wine without connection with what I was about to eat later: a Ksara red wine. Moderately flavoured, strong, but without giving any headache hence natural, simple but with a specific personality. With a glass of water, it can last for hours.

Here comes the first order: a delicious labneh, very creamy with extra mint, fresh olive oil and an olive in the middle, Lebanese pita - which I am not a big fan of - and kabis - something I wanted to test without being aware what it is: several sour pickles, that can go together for a while with the labneh. Despite my serious Hungarian roots, I am not a fan of pickles, but out of curiosity and ready to change my life, I did taste more than I would have done a couple of years ago. Good, but not something to kill for.

The main dish left me breathless and too full to move too much for a while, because of the fine texture of the tehina sauce, with cumin and Cayenne pepper, the delicious French fries, and the fried pieces of salmon. Not too oily, not too salty, a combination of tastes matching and completing each other. The fresh side salad: lemon, some mint, carrots and lettuce balanced the tehina. My gustatory papillae were very happy. The only problem was the wine. The white one was more recommended.

Full but not ready to go yet. I am a serious blogger and how can I leave the restaurant without tasting the desert? But I wanted something lighter, despite my secret wish for a baklava - it will be a next time, don't worry mind and body - so I asked what can continue my eating party. I was recommended a combination of vanilla ice cream with small pieces of almond, and whipped cream plus some hot stuffed dates with peanuts. I had on my plate three different levels of temperature: from the very hot dates - how I did not know about such pleasures before - to the placid whipped cream and the very cold vanilla. Surprisingly enough, I ate faster than usual and with an equally unusual appetite. 

The prices are also acceptable, but somehow, with so many good choices, it's worth working some extra hours the month for enjoying once in a while real good Middle Eastern food. As the menu is not only good looking and colourful, but also with many good recommendations, I am ready to go back soon for a new tasting experience.

Discovering Berlin: The Brutalist Architecture of the Czech Embassy

Everyone knows that Berlin is a very rich cultural center, but besides being a stage for individual artists, it also offers a lot of opportunities for cultural and country branding. When it comes to such activities, the Czech Cultural Centers are one of the best represented Central European countries, offering permanently interesting movies, discussions about design and architecture and creative art exhibitions. The activities in Berlin - multiplied by the events organized in Dusseldorf and Munich - are presenting local artists - during my visit there, at the beginning of December, in the one-year old gallery was running an exhibition by Vladimir Houdek - as well as movies produced by Czech, Hungarian or Finnish artists, among others. The Center also organizes regularly language classes attended by around 60 students of different backgrounds, from retired persons to students. Generally, people in love with the Czech culture. 

The Czech Center is hosted since November 2012 within the embassy, a space-navy building, situated in Wilhemplatz, right in the Mitte of the city. The brown sombre texture of the building gives a certain note of seriousness to the entire architectural complex, in an area where used to be and still are many official buildings.I went round the building and after a couple of minutes I got used with its unbalanced game of volumes. It is not a Rubik cube, rather a domino of cubes whose obsessive order is broken by some small - at the size of the building - pieces of red mosaic and vertical blocks.

The construction of the building - initially the Czechoslovak embassy in the then DDR -  was finished at the end of the 1970s and was authored by the couple of architects Vera and Vladimir Machoninovi (or Machonin how they are called in the local jargon of architects). It used to host around 2,500 employees, but after the creation of two different countries, the number decreased 10 times. The architects, who authored among others several department stores and hotels, followed the models of Brutalism architecture, introduced by Le Corbusier. Its style suited apparently the political demands of the time, but it is not necessarily a Communist pattern, as it suited also the plans for the US Department of Health or the Trellick Tower in London. 

Wilhelmplatz, where the building is situated, has its own rich history as well. The embassy was built on the remnants of the bunker of the famous Kaiserhof hotel. In the 18th century, this square used to be a beloved living for the local bourgeoisie, decorated with statues of Prussian generals on the ends of gardens designed by Schinkel. In the 19th century, ministries were placed in the buildings around the square that served the purposes of the propaganda of the WWII. After the war, the German communists used the space for various institutions of the new-old state, such as the People's Council or a government's guesthouse and later on, the Czechoslovak embassy. In 2007, the Western section of the Mohrenplatz was redesigned in the historical style, and it offers a sample of the mixed architecture of the new Berlin.

Helene Fischer Show in Berlin: 5 full hours of happenings

I don't know too much about the German pop-culture, especially the local star culture, but I want to improve from time to time. When my friend invited me to join her in the public for Helene Fischer Show, I couldn't refuse such a temptation. 

Born in Siberia but living in Germany since childhood, Helene Fischer can be considered an example of the 'German dream', she is speaking fluent German and, even though very young, is one of the most loved stars of the moment. Her show, an amazing mise-en-scene by Frank Hof, whose 'Happy birthday' was sung by 5,000 people, consists in various musical moments intercalated with acrobatics and dance. The two representations, yesterday and the day before, will be made out a special ZDF TV program that will be aired on ZDF in Germany, Austria and Switzerland.

The show was held at Velodrom, an ugly building but huge enough to be considered the second largest concern venue in Berlin, after O2 Arena. It looks like an ungly unfinished business, and has a swimming pool that was built when Berlin submitted its unsuccessful candidacy for the 2000 Summer Olympics.

I arrived relatively early, 45 minutes before the start, crawling through the vendors of tickets close to the S-Bahn, and the many Helene Fischer fans waiting in line for a beer, a wurst or some Haribos. The smell of burning oil become more and more strong during the show, as I was in the middle of a huge fast-food kitchen. But as the show started, I tried to be focused watching what is going on the stage and only the long talking breaks of the entertainer Aliosha reminded me about the smell. As the stage needs to change massively from a musical moment to another, the entertainment lasted usually at least 10 minutes. Hopefully, such long discussions and clapping hands moments will not be seen on TV, where the show will last maximum 3 hours, with some advertising intercalated probably.

Let's the show begin with a Tarzan moment, part of another very popular show from Stuttgart, followed by songs from Helene repertoire and her guests. The atmosphere is getting hot, people are singing and dancing too. Despite the age differences and maybe of the social status too, everyone is united in the memory of the songs. Of course, I have no idea what they are singing about, but I am watching. Hands in the air, smart phones are working and pictures are taken. From time to time, reactions typical to the big soccer games can be hear, but everyone seems to love Helene and many are showing it. 

The show continues with a cute Ice Age moment, continued by some songs of the local troubadour Otto, the successful Swiss Beatrice Egli who won 'Deutschland sucht Superstar' and another Swiss, the very talented 9-year old Chelsea Fontanel. My favourite moment is starting: Momix Botanica, the contemporary dance show from America, with flying halves of flowers getting united in the rhythm of the music. The bodies are tensed recreating the natural energies exploding suddenly or simply stopping for reasons that the humans don't understand. 

Back to the singing mood and Max Raabe is on the stage. He is a popular singer, not only in Germany, but also in the Middle East and China, with a very serious ironic posture, that seems he made a time travel from the Berlin in the 1920s. The 4999 spectators are singing together with him, 'You cannot kiss alone'. I almost forgot how late it is, I may notice only that after a certain hour - 23.30, people are starting to leave. I am trying to keep the eyes open and watch the next moments: a musical story of an iron horse, an episode of a musical show that will be played at 'our Broadway', Theater des Westens, the Iron Horse and Sunrise Avenue, a youngster band popular here who will be on tour at the beginning of the next year. Most classical moments are interpreted by the Babelsberg Film Orchestra. Another admired German star, now over 70, is singing: Peter Kraus, the first German rock'n'roller.

Helene is not only a singer, but also a great dancer - she is also interpreting some moments from Dirty Dancing - and an acrobat. She did acting too at the beginning of her career. 

The last two moments almost woke me up completely. Not only because the entertainer Aliosha is trying to match a young lady from a fan club of Helene Fischer in Brandenburg with a young guy who was brought on stage because he rose his hand high enough to be invited to flirt with her. But because on the stage the Red Army Choir appears, accompanying Vincent Niclo, a tenor who sung together with Céline Dion. One can imagine the grotesque of the over 20 men dressed in uniforms of the Red Army, some with decorations, and with extremely serious poker faces singing on a stage after 12 o'clock, in the 21st century in the unified Berlin. Till I do the time checking and realize where I am, the last moment of the show, another classical tenor moment of Il Divo, already ended and Helene is thanking the tired but still energized public. 

At around 1.20 in the morning, I am almost done with my exploration of the pop-culture. I join again my friend and we drive together in the empty cold city. I should be thankful that in such a short time, I got a perspective of over 5 decades of German pop culture. Watching such a massive show once in a while, can be an interesting experience, especially for a curious expat. 

Discovering multicultural Charlottenburg: the oldest mosque in use in Germany

It is Friday morning and I am rushing to finish all my preparations at a decent hour. As I am more efficient than expected, I still have some time for hunting interesting blogging topics. This time, I go straight to a place where I wanted to go for at least 3 hours. The Mosque in Charlottenburg, the oldest in use in Germany.  

I arrive shortly before 13 o'clock. Friday is the most important day of the week for religious people and even though there is no muezzin calling people people are coming in small groups. In almost 10 minutes, there are around 10 people, mostly tourists, including two from Indonesia. The majority are men, but there are also a couple of women. The mosque belongs to the Lahore Ahmadiyya Movement, that was created in Lahore, Pakistan, at the beginning of the 20th century. The movement is following the sunni version of Islam, but is considered relatively reformist and consequently its followers discriminated in some parts of the world.

A note written at the entrance announces that 'Everyone, regardless of faith, religion, culture and gender' is welcomed, a statement that encouraged me to go further and enter the mosque for a while. I am welcomed in English and allowed to make a tour and take some pictures on my own. The space for women is on the back, where are some coaches and armchairs. It is quite cold inside, and as one may go always shoeless after a while the low winter temperatures are annoying. The place looks freshly painted, with old books and dictionaries offered for consultation on the site, as well as paintings and new books on sale. 

The mosque was open in 1925. A conservative newspaper at the time was announcing the news with the headline: 'Indians in Wilmersdorf' (the administrative unity at the tinme was incorporating Charlottenburg as well). Nowadays, it is connected with a similar mosque in London. It was build with a capacity of 400 persons. In 1937, the famous Aga Khan, the then richest man in the world, visited the place. Affected during the bombings, the mosque was reconstructed after the war and opened again to the public. 

I left the mosque before the praying time started. Playing the neutral observer in a place of worship is something I don't like to do as I would not like to be anyone's subject of observation during such personal intimate moments. I am living with a last look to the white building with towers adorned with modest models. There is a lot of history written in my neighbourhood.