Iranian graffiti at SomoS gallery

Everyone is speaking a lot about Iran today and politics are always on the top of my interest list - equal place with travel - but there are also other things that the Persian culture can offer: the talent of young free minds, and the very tasty food. This Monday, I started my week visiting an interesting graffiti exhibition with works of Iranian artists, at SomoS gallery at Kottbuser Damm. 

When thinking about graffiti, the first thing it comes in mind is the street art, isn't it? This exhibition brought motives and works typical for the street art in the closed space of the exhibition. Local urban symbols and various messages of peace in Persian are part of the graffiti on canvas works. 

The space, hosted at the first floor of a building, was crowded with people, some of them artists themselves keen to offer more details about their work. Images on a musical background are projected on a screen, but unfortunatelly there is not too much to find out about how it really feels to be a graffiti artist in Tehran. Probably many of them already left the country, as I bet it is not that easy to make your free creative way there without freedom risks. 

There are not too many works displayed and wished there are also other events on the same topics organized on that occasion, such as short presentations and open workshops with the artits. SomoS Gallery is an open creative space offering exhibition space to artists, meaning 'we are', in Portuguese.

 The exhibition can be visited till the beginning of August.

This was the first event dedicated to Persian graffiti and hope that Berlin, which hosts many young Iranian artists, will offer even more special similar events. As I was able to see during my short visit at SomoS, there is a huge interest for this part of the creative world and I hope not only for the opportunity offered to the West to make businesses with a very politically incorrect regime. 

Checkpoint California: American Art in the heart of Berlin

Till the 28th of June, the visitors of Unter den Linden can stop and visit - for free - an interesting exhibition of modern art inspired by California hosted at Deutsche Bank Kunsthalle. California is not only about the sun, that we need it dearly these days, but also about the inspiration brought about by the blue sky and outdoor long walks around the beach.

The exhibition presents works of six modern artists that benefited from stays at the famous Villa Aurora in Los Angels, that during and after WWII was a center of supporting creative artists, especially from Germany. Managed for a long time by Lion Feuchtwanger and his wife, Marta, it hosted at various times personalities like Charlie Chaplin, Thomas Mann and Bertold Brecht. The works presented for the next days are created by artists in residence and covers various personal lectures in the modern register of California, seen not only through the eyes of the show biz and glamour of Hollywood.  

The works and installations - some of them extensively presented through various other events organised on the sides of the exhibition - are investigations and personal insights of familiar landscapes, exploring the limits of reflection and the power of image. Albrecht Schäfer, for instance, creates hanging sculptures out of small pieces of wood with letters and colours marking the space like aponderal columns. You leave the space with the confirmation of the power of arts to change: perspectives, places and, especially people. 

Tina Heuter exhibition on Knesebeckstrasse

 The surprising part of walking the streets of the Western part of Berlin is that you never know when you will discover something completely new. From interesting shops to newly opened restaurants, I can hardly have enough of this part of the city. When it comes to art galleries, the pleasure is even greater, as it often gives me inspiration and creative strength after a full day spent at work. This was the effect that Tina Heuter exhibition had on my afternoon, after entering the space on Knesebeckstrasse 20/21. 

Delicate bronze, concrete and paper silhouettes are balancing their delicate weights against the silent whitness of the walls.

Unexpected combinations of materials, like colourful thread on white silk paper, or the pop-art light installation attached to a bronze heads are pushing the limits of creativity farther. 

Most works - all on sale - requested an impressive amount of time and painful unsuccessful attempts to perfection. 

 The strength of the perfect attempts to beauty invites to silence.

Irony is present, in the red lips of the concrete statues or the Chanel bag hanging on the hands of the elongated bronze women profiles. 

This exhibition is open till the end of August, but Heuter is often presenting her works all over Germany. 

Exploring Teufelsee

After spending one month far away from Berlin, I tried to get in touch again intensively with the city in the last days. Except the weather - an autumn cocktail of rain, grey clouds and some happy hours of sun - I must recognize that I missed the city and in the last week I tried to visit as many old beloved places as possible, as well as checking new destinations. Since the early spring, my friends recommended me Teufelsee as a quiet destination for slow hiking. Today, I finally made it there. From the S-Bahn Grunewald, I passed on the other side of the train passage, near terraces and open air restaurants. Some of them were renting bikes for 12 Euro the day, a tempting offer given the hike concentration of bikes in the area. However, I resisted the temptation and preferred the slow walking around. 

Although there is not a marked road, is almost impossible to get lost. Especially today, it was plenty of bikes, Nordic walkers, families with children, joggers and a lot of dogs and their owners. Happily enough, the forest is big enough for all the people from Berlin looking for a secluded green paradise. 

From time to time, there were big billboards explaining the visitors what they can expect in terms of flora and fauna, but unfortunately I did not spot anything special.

From afar, the mysterious Teufelsberg listening station, the former CIA center in West Berlin, was overseeing the area. 

Suddenly, the secluded beach I was told about appeared. True is that it was not that secluded, and there were a lot of people around chilling out or having lunch on the fine sand dune, but the presence was spectacular.  

The traces of conifers on the sand brought an air of mystery to the place, while announcing the inevitable autumn. 

 We kept walking near the fallen trees and serious joggers, looking for an animal farm I was told about. 

But we only found the lake, with children training to swim over a canoe. Their enthusiastic noises were contagious breaking up from time to time the majestic silence of the area. Here  is a short live video. 

The area was crowded, so we preferred to keep walking and walking, looking for more fresh air and even more hiking. Although I was well trained, after intensive hiking in medium to difficult mountains, I enjoyed the slow motion. Good sport shoes are recommended for a successful experience. 

I suppose the journey can be done all round the year, but this time of the year is perfect for the good temperature and the beautiful green scenery. 

Wild colourful fruits were sparkling from time to time the green monotony. I tried to spot some special animal traces in the fresh mud, but could not get anything special. Better for me, as during my last hiking in the Carpathians, I was showed some delicate bear trace and was not sure how I should react if finally meeting the furry one.  

On the ground, wild mushrooms were ready for some photon opportunities. I felt sad to leave the Teufelsee, thinking about the coming cold weather and the limited experiences of hiking. However, with so many green areas and forests in and around Berlin, I should try to repeat the experience at least twice the week in the coming month. Not only keeps me fit, but gives me a certain feeling of well being and mental wellness. 

At Sultan Hamam

As Berlin has the biggest Turkish community outside Turkey, expect a lot of interesting hamam offers in the most unexpected places. However, it seems that some of the best are well hidden waiting to be discovered. Sultan Hamam was opened in 1999 and is situated in a building hosting various companies and offices on Bülowstraße, close to the U7 Yorkstrasse metro station. At the first sight, the entrance into the building doesn't look very inviting, but dare to go further on. 

The hamam was created in the space of the apartments, adapted to the various facilities of the steam bath, sauna and other wellness services offered. Upon arrival, the visitor is invited to rest and take his or her time. The decorations and design are minimal, simple. The space combines the relaxation features with the cleanliness/bathing and various modern wellness services. 

Although the steam bath and bath are the main purposes, additional services, some of them included in the price of the ticket are offered too: a little hairdressing parlour, peeling, massage, various cosmetic services. There are different promotional packages offered and the prices are affordable. 

The daily program is separated for genders. The men are allowed only on Mondays, from 12pm to 11pm. From Tuesday to Saturday, the hamam is the meeting place of the women. Family programs are available on Sundays, days when wearing the swimsuit is requested. 

The visitor is given upon arrival a brass shell ornated with Oriental motives, and an olive soap. With the shell, one will pour the water on the body. It is a slowly ancient ritual, that require time and patience, and might bring a lot of relaxation. Think about the time running as water and the patience you need to fill the little shell again and again.

The Finnish sauna could be a good additional service especially during the cold days of the long winter in Berlin. From autumn till late spring, the hamam is very busy, trying to bring a ray of light - although artificial light - into the dark life of the citizens of Berlin. During the summer, reservations 2-3 days in advance are possible, while for the winter/autumn, at least one week is advance is recommended. 

Comfy chairs are provided for those looking for relaxation after or in between various wellness services. Some of the chairs are placed outside, on a small balcony decorated in warm colours. After visiting each of the rooms and facilities, I might be tempted to come back in one of the days provided for women. Especially when you can offer so many additional services and facilities that can give a full feeling of relaxation and wellness. With affordable prices and many tempting packages, the Sultan Hamam can be a good opportunity for doing something special for yourself, at least once in a while.

Disclaimer: I was offered a complimentary tour of the Sultan Hamam but the opinions are, as always, my own

Turkish sweet treasures at Confiserie Orientale

One Sunday afternoon, I was in Mitte looking for a place to drink a good coffee while waiting for a delayed appointment and discovered Confiserie orientale. Unfortunately, it was shortly before the closing time and couldn't have my treat. Left the place jealous of the guy who was waiting for his carefully packed boxes of lokoum (Turkish delight) and promised to come back as soon as possible.

Three days after, I'd found an opportunity to return and offered myself, not only a delicious yet very strong cardamom coffee, but also a pear tart with almonds and pistachio on the top - very fruity, with a fine dough that you hardly notice - and a tahini little cookie - that tastes like halva and may go well with a cup of tea. Except the lokoum that is brought directly from Turkey, all the other delicious treats are freshly prepared on the spot. 

Confiserie Orientale, or Cemilzade in Turkish, was opened in Mitte in 2005, as the one and only Europe-wide representative of the century old confiserie from Istanbul, where is currently running. Its creator was the multi-talented Udi Cemil Bey, singer and poet and talented cake lover and maker, which opened its sweet shop first in Cairo, at the end of the 19th century. After his death, the sons moved the business in Istanbul, where is currently run by representatives of the same family. 

The decorations, designed by the Berlin-based Claudia Medrow, are integrating the old history - through old pictures hanging on the walls - into the eclectic pace of the city, especially the dynamic and non-conformist ambiance from Mitte. 

At the counter, a lot of sweet temptations, and while having a look at the fresh cakes, I wonder how many centuries I will need to prepare such perfect pieces of confect. While chatting at the counter, I find out why I enjoyed the tarte and the cookie without feeling overloaded by sugar: all the ingredients are natural. 

The prices are acceptable, and the service is more than friendly.  

Besides the coffee and the equally traditional tea, the customer can also discover the less known Turkish wine, made in Cappadocia, with colourful labels inviting you to jump in the first plane to see the famous balloons. 

The space is relatively small - around 10 places -, with outside places during the summer time, but quiet enough to host a variety of guest: from students on a reading break, to mothers with small children and some curious bloggers. 

As long as I will continue living here, I know that in the center of Berlin, there is always a corner of the European Istanbul that will always call me back.

Exhibition of French-German designers at Kunstforum der Berliner Volksbank

I rarely can say that I am getting bored in Berlin, not only because I have a variety of interests, but also because there is always a lot to discover. The local creativity in promoting ideas seems to be never ending and if you are curious enough, it is not too difficult to find something to see at least once the day.

Two weeks ago, on a Friday rainy day, my shelter against the weather was the Kunstforum der Berliner Volksbank, were I had the occasion to admire in the past interesting exhibitions, such the one featuring the history and culture of South Sudan. This time, the space was ready for the vernisage of a joint exhibition featuring French and German designers. The historical French-German friendship got a new colourful twist and was lucky to have a look.

It is hard to measure the degree of creativity on both parts of the border. Maybe the French ingenuity is translated in a completely new environment by the use of unique materials by the Germans.

Take, for instance, this jacket made of transport tickets used in Berlin.

Or this extravagant feather lamp, that with a lot of imagination one can fit for an apartment set to host parties all round the day.

The exhibition covers every area of design, from fashion to furniture, jewels and electronics, cars and sculptures. 

I especially appreciated the great lines of the furniture, combining both creativity and practicality, with a drop of craziness from time to time.

In most cases, the furniture objects can be easily fit to various interiors, and many of them are very beautiful, as for instance this table inspired by both Bauhaus and Art nouveau.

The fashion part is mostly accessible, even though this white dress by Pierre Letz probably requires a specific wedding setting. 

The jewellery items are hanged on modest cardboards, and such a choice can outline the shine and sophisticated lines of the products. Like in the case of the colourful jewels by Hyoun Jung Sung representing Germany. 

The space is big enough to include a lot of furniture, almost all of them tempting enough to inspire a dramatic redesign of the house. This desk, for instance, may look out of time, but it's provided with special facilities from computers.

And this red hat, that can remind of the old stories with the girl and the wolf, is adapted to the technicalities of iPods. 

Even though it was the first day of the exhibition, there were plenty of people wandering around, and it is very much to see. Situated close to the Zoo and 5 minutes close to the KaDeWe, the Kunstforum der Berliner Volksbank is a great choice to discover something new about design. The entry is free. The exhibition is open till 27 April.