Discovering Schmagendorf

With almost seven years of constant experience of discovering more new and new corners of Berlin, I am almost sure that there are few things left to really impress me. However, one day at the end of the winter, while walking for a couple of hours around Hohenzollerndamm, I discovered a little unexpected island: Schmagendorf. As I felt attracted by the mixture of old Berlin style, new and old architecture and a lot of new modern restaurants, I decided to come back later a couple of weeks later, in one sunny day to carefully document this neighbourhood. 

I started my walk at the historical Hohenzollerndamm historical train station, walking slowly the long avenue with the same name, for almost 30 minutes. There are not too many shops around, and only few scattered restaurants, many medical cabinets and pharmacies, with the only main attraction being the Ice stadion whose season just ended. The only bus connecting with the rest of the city is no. 115, but this time I was rather interested to walk discovering ineresting architecture styles, houses and eventually the people living here.

From Elsterplatz, I followed the touristic arrows indicating the direction of Townhall Schmagendorf, via Berkaerstrasse. Dominated by the castle-look of the town hall, the street also has modernist samples of architecture, and a relatively fancy Italian restaurant, Lucullus. The sound of the music lessons held in the old townhall rooms, resounding from the early spring open windows, gave to the entire area a certain irreal flavour. The area at the intersection between Berkaer and Breitestrasse keeps an ambiance of the 1950s. At the no. 31-35 on Berkaerstr. it used to be the Jewish old people's home built by Alex. Beer. At Hundekehlstr. 11, Rainer Maria Rilke wrote in 1899 the Cornet poem. 

The first time when I arrived in the area, my imagination was challenged about the brick-Gothic style of the townhall and wanted not only to find out more historical facts about it, but also to go inside, searching for more secrets. Outside, the architectural style was influenced by the trends used for public institutions in Brandenburg area at the beginning of the 20th century. The round over tower is crowded with battlements and cone-shaped cap towers above the steep gable building., made of several parts. Inaugurated in 1902 as a townhall, in 1920 was downgraded only as a town registry, following the incorporation of Schmagendorf into the Wilmersdorf district. Here married Romy Schneider as well as other German personalities.  

But the discoveries inside the building are even more interesting. The serious arches made of the red brick stones are watered by the reflection of light filtered through the stained glasss mosaique. A discrete notice on the corner of one of the works mentions that the work was created by Helena Starck Buchholz and set up by August Wagner. For now, the building hosts a children library and a music school. The voices of the children running fast to start their music lessons or to take a new book from the library add even more life to the sober interior. 

On the streets around, the spring invited everyone to go out of their houses, so I can see the many generations of people living here. As in many other small neighbourhoods of Berlin, you can have here almost everything to make your life comfortable without going too far away of your comfort zone: a flower shop, a computer shop, a couple of local bookstores. Another Italian restaurant, Nuovo Mario, am Koeberger Square is half-full at this mid-day time. Every Saturday, on Reichenhalterstr. there is a flea market, with cheap food or home products offered to the locals. 

As in any respectable Berlin Kiez, it has its own bio store: Hofladen im Kiez, with fresh pastry and various ecological products, including a colourful healthy selection of fruits and vegetables. 

And I keep exploring, from the big avenues dominated by classical West Berlin buildings, to the local small veggie store on Friedrichshaller, My & Minh Sushi Viet bar, or the Casa Delizia Italian restaurant that already serves the menu outside. 

Once arrived on Breitestr., the life is getting very busy. At the old style Jebens Konditorei, classical German sweets are served and you can hardly find a free table right now. At no. 20, a mysterious yard is hosting various Artists' workshops, with special discounts for various classes. A bit far away, there is Dschunke, introduced as one of the oldest Chinese restaurant in West Berlin, as well as a small welcoming bookstore. 

But, what is happening here? After a relatively friendly winter, people, especially the smallest among us, are waiting impatiently to have their small portion of delicious Italian icecream. It was about time!

Back on Barkaerstreet, I feel that at least for now, my short journey to Schmagendorf is about to end. After a last look, and a couple of more pictures of the townhall, I am back on Hohenzollerndamm. The announcement board near the Carl Orff school anounces the schedule of the next meetings in the neighbourhood, varying from cooking classes to different lectures. What else can you want more! Life in Berlin seems to be interesting, whatever where do you live! With the spring already in town, it seems that there will be a lot of new things to do and to discover around!

Revisiting Köpenick

Some summers ago, I spent a couple of good days in Köpenick, but after returning from the long summer vacation, I decided that I did not have enough of this relatively unexplored part of the city. After a long S-Bahn journey, passing near industrial areas, but also near the Muggelsee, we finally arrived. I took a different way, following Grunaer street, in the direction of the castle.

Small cheap bakeries and beer parlours, bordering small streets with colourful block houses, freshly repainted. It reminded me of some old small towns I visited a couple of summers ago in the Brandenburg area.

When I was almost feeling bored and put into doubt my decision to try a completely different path, near the elegant Pentahotel, I discovered a discrete parking of very expensive yachts, looking for new owners. 

The mood changed completely when I spotted the distinguished white silhouette of the Castle, with its cubic shaped guardian trees on the border of the water. 

 As usual, the expressionless statues were waiting in the front of the entry.

The castle was erected as a hunting lodge in 1558 by Joachim II Hector of Brandenburg, and during the 30 Years War it used to be the headquarters of King Gustav Adolphus of Sweden. Later on, in 1677, he become the property of Frederich I of Prussia. Nowadays, it hosts an interesting collection of decorative arts. 

I always wanted to visit the museum castle, but every time either was closed, or one of the special concerts were taking place in the small entrance yard. This time, nothing stood against my love for the decorative arts. Besides the usual permanent exhibition, this time a creative temporary display of local artists was offered to the public. 

The collection is impressive, and includes several wooden walls and canopies from all over Germany and Switzerland, porcelain from Meissen, objects belonging to the German rococo and spectacular stuccatura and wall statues, China laquers and cabinets and a wide array of pieces of furniture. 

After so much diversity and exuberance of shapes and colours, a walk around the gardens with their manicured alleys bordered by wild flowers and gracious statues. The little coffee bar in the garden serves a good coffee and a variety of German-Austrian inspired dishes, such as the classical apple strudel. 

Enough with too much meditation! The Schlossplatz was bubbling with life, children enjoying the last days of the summer vacation and tourists spending their time out of the usual curious crowds. From the Tourist Office I was told that the celebrated Jazz Festival that used to last for a couple of weeks was not organized this year, due to the lack of funds. 

Lovers of beers with a historical touch would probably enjoy spending time at the smallest brewery in Germany. All round the day and the week, the square also hosts a market of fruits and veggies and a short visit to the ice cream parlours shall be included into the visiting program. 

The streets are calling the visitor to a drink or some classical German cuisine, in historical locals.

The impressive red bricked town hall cannot be ignored, with its 54 meter high and the combination of late Gothic and modern architecture. The initial construction was done in 1763, but considerably rebuilt and expanded at the beginning of the 20th century.

We keep walking and walking, on the Alter Markt and the small houses from Katzengraben. Close to the Spree area, there are entire streets with old fishermen houses, little dwarfs cottages, some of them offering holiday rooms. Boat tours are also available for those interested to discover this part of the city by boat. 

The culinary stop was at the historical Washhaus, nowadays a traditional Bayern local. I wanted to follow the regional trends and took a bretzel - was expecting it fresh and maybe warm too, but was disappointed - and my one and only beer of the season, a Radler. The view was very relaxing and wished I had more free hours. 

Those interested by a detailed history of Köpenick must visit Heimatmuseum, hosted in a small traditional house - a former children nursery and child care facility. Located on the island created by the meeting between Spree and Dahm, it used to be a former Slavic settlement called Kopanica, mentioned for the first time in 1232. Till its incorporation into Berlin in 1920, it used to be an independent town. Following the last administrative reform, it incorporated also the Treptow district, adding more nature to an already green framework. 

As usual, before leaving the old town, I took a last look at the huge advertising cocktail painted on the walls. 

Back to the S-Bahn station, on the way back home, I realized that although there are slight chances to discover anything surprising in this part of the city, paying a visit from time to time it's relaxing and worth the long journey from a part to the other of Berlin.